Guide to leather and other products care

This general guidance provides the user with basic information on the safe use, care and maintenance of selected products.

Detailed guidance for the use and maintenance of specific items are provided on product care tags, guidelines and manufacturer's manuals.

IMPORTANT! It is the buyer's responsibility to check the goods received comply with the purchase agreement and there is no concealed damage or damage caused during transport. Any issues shall be reported to WITTCHEN immediately.

SHOES LEATHER TYPES

UPPER: natural leather, other materials, textile

Full grain leather – types:

1. Aniline leather – any visible variations on the surface of the undyed leather such as open pores are visible. The dye colours the leather without producing the uniform surface of a topcoat paint.
2. Semi-aniline leather – leather with visible half-opened pores. The dye contains a small amount of pigment, which allows the leather to still display its natural characteristics while bringing more colour consistency. By applying this type of pigments to a slightly sanded surface, the semi -aniline leather does not show the natural markings as clearly and minor defects are covered. The finish is thin and visually does not deviate from the aniline leather.
3. Nappa leather – highly pigmented (dyed) leather, covered with a large amount of dye (all leather defects are concealed).
4. Pull-up leather – waxed leather, most often aniline leather. It is finished with a combination of waxes and oils, which gives the leather a very soft feel.
5. Buffalo leather – Indian buffalo hide vegetable tanned, dyed and finished with waxes. Demonstrates low mechanical resistance.

Corrected (top) grain leather, coated – this type of leather is produced by buffing away the top of the grain surface and then building a new surface using a polybutadiene resin coating. The resin finish can be varnished or foiled.

Brush-off leather – is a type of leather that has pigment applied via a brush. This creates a unique pattern of colour on each piece. The variations might be in gradient, blending, or overall tone.

Genuine leather – type of leather that has the surface sanded several times with sandpaper. The following are:

1. Suede – is made by taking a leather cut from the corium of the hide, and sanding the inner surface (flesh side) of dense fibres to produce “the raised-fibre”, textured side.
2. Nubuck, velour leather – is a type of leather that has the surface sanded in such a way as to leave the surface with a slight nap of short and soft fibres.
3. Other materials, textiles – lightweight and fairly breathable materials with relatively good mechanical resistance. Easy to maintain.

Lining and inner sole: leather lining (goat, calf, cow, pig), other materials, textiles

Leather and materials with high hygroscopic properties are used for linings and inner soles.

Outer sole: natural leather, protective rubber sole, other materials, rubber

Outer sole leather is made of vegetable-tanned cow hides. They are highly hygroscopic (air and water vapour permeability). For optimal wear, the leather sole should be secured with a thin rubber, PVC, thermoplastic or polyurethane compounds.

Other materials – this type of sole is characterized by high resistance to damage and low abrasion.

Rubber – the bottom of a shoe made of rubber offers much-needed benefits like slip resistance, protection against abrasions as well as high thermal insulation.

GENERAL ADVICE

Always put on and take off your shoes unlaced or with their zippers open. During all-day wear, the leather absorbs a large amount of moisture. Leather shoes should have one full day (24 hours) to dry out from natural foot perspiration. Intensive use of one pair of shoes can lead to its premature wear. Do not wear the same shoes on two successive days.

Water proof your shoes before the first time you wear them with specially designed shoe care products for each leather type.

It is not allowed to wash shoes. Avoid getting your shoes extremely wet, as it deprives the material of elasticity, causes cracking and weakens the adhesive compounds. In case of getting wet, shoes should be dried at room temperature, away from any heat sources such as radiators, heaters, stoves, etc. Using self-polishing lotions (liquid) is not recommended as it can damage the top layer of the leather.

CLEANING AND CONDITIONING GUIDE

Smooth leather (grain leather, patent leather, corrected grain leather)

Begin by wiping away as much dirt as you can with a damp cloth or brush. Try to avoid soaking the shoe with water. Let it dry at room temperature, away from heat sources. Next we recommend you apply a thin coating of shoe cream (shoe polish) all around the shoe with a cloth, allow it to dry and rub it in well. Remember to use a cream that matches the colour of your shoes. Shoes should be polished with a delicate cloth. It is recommended to use only shoes polishes and creams containing beeswax for daily footwear conditioning.

Genuine leather (suede, nubuck leather)

Shoes made of suede are characterized by low resistance to soaking and require cleaning with special sprays exclusively designed for this type of leather. For regular maintenance, use a suede brush to remove any dirt and buff using the back (rubber) side of the brush if you have a stubborn mark. The most important way to maintain your suede shoes is to use a suede protector spray to help the leather repel dirt and water, do not use shoe cream polish. Stubborn dirt can be removed with slightly damp cloth, avoid soaking the shoe with water. Let it dry at room temperature, away from heat sources. Apply a suede protector spray evenly. White salt marks should be removed with special products.

SHOES STORAGE

At the end of the season, shoes should be thoroughly cleaned, dried and polished/conditioned. Use shoe trees or stuff shoes up with paper to help them retain their shape and then put them in the original shoe box or a breathable dust bag. Store footwear in a dry place away from heat sources.

Pictograms ¹

1. Leather
2. Coated Leather
3. Textiles
4. Other materials

¹⁾ Source: Regulation of the Council of Ministers of November 28, 2000 on the detailed conditions of labelling footwear for sale to the consumer.

LEATHER GOOD AND HANDBAGS

LEATHER TYPES

Natural hide leather is sourced from farm animals. It goes through a tanning and finishing process in order to increase its durability and enhance its aesthetic values.

Leather is characterised by:
– water vapour permeability,
– durability, elasticity.

Natural leather – types:

1. Grain leather – leather with smooth surface. Top layer is finished with a combination of waxes (or other substances), which gives the leather demanded texture and properties. Due to this process, leather is more resistant to dirt and damp.
2. Corrected grain leather, coated – usually split leather or natural grain leather, this type of leather is produced by buffing away the top of the grain surface and then building a new surface with synthetic materials.
3. Genuine leather - suede or nubuck leather. Suede is made by taking a leather cut from the corium of the hide, and sanding the inner surface(flesh side) of dense fibres to produce “the raised-fibre”, textured side. Nubuck leather is a type of leather that has the surface sanded in such a way as to leave the surface with a slight nap of short and soft fibres. These kind of leathers are prone to dirt, damage and damp. They require systematic cleaning and conditioning.
4. Patent leather completely smooth leather with no texture at all. Coated with several layers of patent finish which can certainly make a leather feel stiffer.
5. Aniline – any visible variations on the surface of the undyed leather such as open pores are visible. The dye colours the leather without producing the uniform surface of a topcoat paint.
6. Pull-up leather – waxed leather, most often aniline leather. It is finished with a combination of waxes and oils, which gives the leather a very soft feel.
7. Embossed, textured and antiqued leathers – usually grain or split leather, with a modified surface layer by rolling, pressing, creasing or stamping.

PU leather, “vegan leather’, faux leather – is a type of synthetic leather made generally of polyurethane resins and coated with a polymer layer.

CARING FOR LEATHER GOODS AND HANDBAGS

To ensure that leather products do not age prematurely and become unsightly, attentive impregnation, maintaining and care is a must. Before using the product, it should be impregnated.

CLEANING AND CONDITIONING GUIDE

Do a quick cleaning briskly sweeping your leather bag with a soft, dry, or slightly damp cloth. Do not use too much water, let it dry at room temperature, away from heat sources. To prevent flaking and wrinkling, apply leather conditioner (gel or cream) to a soft cloth and gently rub over entire bag. Remember to use a conditioner that matches the colour of your handbag. Using self-polishing lotions is not recommended as it can damage the top layer of the leather. The most important way to maintain your suede or nubuck leather handbags is to use a suede protector spray to help the leather repel dirt and water. Use a suede brush to remove any dirt. Stubborn dirt can be removed with slightly damp cloth, avoid soaking the shoe with water.

LEATHER GOODS AND HANDBAGS STORAGE

Store your leather accessory away from direct sunlight as this can cause fading and from artificial sources of heat, e.g. radiators can cause leather to dry and crack. Handbags should be stored in a dust bag to avoid scratches. Avoid using plastic bags as they prevent good ventilation.

CLOTHING

All WITTCHEN jackets and coats have an internal clothing label with detailed cleaning instructions.

Outer fabric material: natural leather, fur / sheepskin leather, polyester, nylon, wool, other materials

Filling: natural insulation, synthetic insulation, down, feathers

Lining: polyester, acetate, cotton, polyamide, viscose

OUTER

LEATHER

WITTCHEN jackets are made of selected, high quality natural leather: lamb, sheep, goat and pig skins. Natural leather product it is not a garment which you should wear in heavy rain therefore it is excluded from rainproof products. Fading, wrinkling, cracking, as well as physical changes such as: creasing, abrasions, stains on the edges, minor cuts are not considered a defect.

CLEANING

First, you need to be clear about what type of leather you are dealing with as leather is prone to all kinds of dirt and grease, which are very difficult, and often even impossible to remove. Cosmetics stains (creams, powders, perfumes) can cause a permanent build-up of dirt and grease. You can try to clean this type of stains with a slightly damp cloth and soapy water. Blot rather than rub and avoid over-wetting the leather. Dry the leather naturally but do not allow it to remain damp for long. Let it dry away from artificial sources of heat, as they can cause leather to dry and crack. You should condition your leather clothes by applying a commercially available care products. Remember to test any leather conditioner, on a small inconspicuous area of your leather garment before smearing the cleaner onto larger areas. Leather is not resistant to sweat and may transfer the colour in the areas in contact with the user's skin (elements of the sleeve, collars).

Sweat stains are a common nuisance that occurs around the edges of collars and arm cuffs on leather materials. Removing sweat stains requires delicate care so that the fragile material is not damaged. If you own leather clothing and intend on keeping it for a long period of time, it is essential that you regularly clean and condition it at the specialist cleaner.

STORAGE

Store your leather clothing away from direct sunlight as this can cause fading and from artificial sources of heat. Always hang your clothes on a padded hanger so that it is not stretched out of shape. Store your jacket in a cool dry place, and never wrap it in plastic as this will cause it to dry out.

WOOL

Wool is a type of fabric derived from the hairs of sheep. It has balanced thermal insulation properties - meaning it is warm in winter and cool in the summer. Wool resists wrinkles - wool is like a spring, it has a natural crimp that allows it to return to its natural shape. However, the product stretches due to soaking. Over the time, the wool fibres may stretch, fatten, felt or pill.

CLEANING

Dry-clean only at reputable dry cleaner points. It is recommended to ventilate the product frequently. It is not recommended to soak the product.

STORAGE

Store your clothing away from direct sunlight and from artificial sources of heat. In the summer months, the product should be protected against moths. Always hang your clothes on a padded hanger so that it is not stretched out of shape. Store your clothes in a cool dry place, and never wrap it in plastic bag.

FUR COATS/ SHEEPSKIN COATS

Sheepskin is used for the manufacturing of sheepskin and fur coats.

CLEANING

Fur coat should be cleaned by a professional cleaner who specialises in cleaning fur. Often hang to ventilate.

STORAGE

Store your clothing away from direct sunlight and from artificial sources of heat. In the summer months, the product should be protected against moths. Always hang your clothes on a padded hanger so that it is not stretched out of shape. If not worn for a longer period of time, store your clothes in a cool dry place, possibly in a material dust bags and never wrap it in a plastic bag.

SYNTHETIC MATERIALS

Polyester

Material made of synthetic fibres which are extremely strong. It is resistant to stretching and shrinking (when wet or dry), wrinkle resistant, mildew and abrasion resistant. Polyester is hydrophobic in nature and quick drying.

Nylon

Material made of synthetic fibres which are extremely strong. It is resistant to stretching and shrinking, wrinkle resistant, mildew, bacteria and abrasion resistant. In addition, it dries quickly compared to other materials.

CLEANING

Clean the product according to the information given on the label tag. Minor stains can be removed with a damp cloth. It is recommended to dry-clean at dry cleaner points.

STORAGE

Store your clothing away from direct sunlight and from artificial sources of heat. Always hang your clothes on a padded hanger so that it is not stretched out of shape. If not worn for a longer period of time, store your clothes in a cool dry place, possibly in a material dust bags.

OTHER MATERIALS

Surface stains can be removed with a soft and damp cloth. Avoid soaking with water. Let it dry in a cool and dry place. The linings are made of materials that ensure the best comfort of use (vapour exchange).

WASHING SYMBOLS ON CLOTHING TAGS

The care label attached to clothing indicates how a particular item should best be cleaned without damaging the textile. The 4 or 5 symbols show instructions for: washing, bleaching, ironing and dry-cleaning. A milder than specified treatment is always acceptable. However, it does not guarantee complete removal of dirt and stains.

Washing

Stylized washtub symbol: machine wash.

Bleaching

Triangle symbol stands for bleaching.

Drying (in tumble drying)

• Not all labels have a tumble dry symbol. If not stated, check washing and ironing symbols. When symbols indicate careful handling (e.g. low washing temperature, gentle washing, low ironing temperature), the use of a tumble dryer should be carefully considered.
• Some items cannot be tumble dried (pay attention to the pictograms). Examples:
• Cotton knitted fabrics (shrinking).
• Wool (felting, shrinking).
• Silk and polyacrylic items (temperature damage).
• Curtains (risk of creasing)

Tips for sustainable drying:

• Drying outdoors saves energy and money. When drying on a line indoors, make sure that it is well ventilated.
• Before drying, carefully drain the water from the garment. Pay attention to the washing symbols to check that the clothes can be spun at high speed.
• Dry items with similar drying times together. For example, cotton and synthetics have different drying times and residual moisture.
• Some tumble dryers have sensors to measure residual moisture and they will automatically adjust drying time to the level of dryness you have selected. When using a tumble dryer and a drying time program, use the shortest possible times to save energy.
• Always follow the manufacturer's instructions. The drum cannot be overloaded.

Ironing

The number of dots in the mark of the iron indicates the recommended ironing temperature. The iron with up to three dots allows for ironing. The number of dots are assigned temperatures: one prescribes 110 °C, 2 for 150 °C, and 3 for 200 °C. An iron with a cross prohibits ironing.

Professional cleaning

The above laundry symbols are for professional cleaning. A simple circle will tell you whether the item should be dry cleaned or not.

Letter tells the dry cleaner the process.

PICTOGRAMS ON WASHING, BLEACHING, DRYING, IRONING AND PROFESSIONAL CLEANING OF TEXTILE PRODUCTS

The following information is based on:

PN-EN ISO 3758: 2012 Textiles - labelling system using symbols.

Washing	Bleaching	Drying	Ironing	Professional cleaning

Symbol list

WASHING

The washing process is symbolized by the wash tub shown in Figure 1.

BLEACHING

The bleaching process is symbolized by the triangle shown in Figure 2.

DRYING

The drying process is symbolized by the square shown in Figure 3.

A circle in the square symbolizes a clothes dryer shown in figure 4. Additional information on the natural drying symbols are shown below.

IRONING AND STEAMING

The ironing and steam ironing process is symbolised by the iron shown in Figure 5.

PROFESSIONAL DRY CLEANING

For professional chemical and water cleaning processes (excluding industrial washing), the symbol is the circle shown in Figure 6.

PROCESS WHICH IS NOT ALLOWED

In addition to six symbols, there is one more symbol: the cross of St. Andrew, which means that the given process is not allowed.

GENTLE CLEANING

A bar under the wash tub signifies a gentler treatment in the washing machine.

VERY GENTLE CLEANING

A double bar signifies very gentle handling in the washing machine/washing process.

CLEANING TEMPERATURE

The number within the laundry symbol shows the maximum temperature that item of clothing can be washed at. This can range from 30°C to 95°C. Additionally, the dots on washing, drying, ironing and steam ironing symbols correspond to the dots on an its temperature settings: the more dots there are, the more heat can be applied.

WASHING

Wash tub is a symbol of the washing process (hand or machine) (see Figure 1). The sign is used to convey information on the maximum washing temperature and maximum washing intensity as shown in Table 1.

BLEACHING

The triangle symbolizes the bleaching process (see Figure 2 and Table 2).

DRYING

Tumble drying

The square is the symbol of the drying process. The circle in the square is a reference to tumble drying (see Figure 4.). The dots in the dryer drum indicate the severity of the temperature of the tumble drying process (see Table 3).

NATURAL DRYING SYMBOLS

General information

Due to the global tendency to unify the method of labelling natural drying, certain symbols have been introduced for use in those countries where there is a need for their use. If they are used, it is recommended to place them below the 5-symbol marking and clearly separate them from the standard symbols. Natural drying instructions may be given in words or in the form of symbols.

Definition

Natural drying is a process carried out after washing a garment, aimed at removing residual water by hanging the textile clothing on a line, drying without wringing or laying the product flat in the sun or in the shade.

Description and definition of symbols

The square symbolizes the natural drying process (see Figure 6).

The symbol containing horizontal or vertical line(s) in the square indicate the natural drying process, line drying, drip line drying, flat drying, drip flat drying. The oblique line symbolizes the respective natural drying process to be carried out in the shade, as shown in Table 4.

A square box with a small curve inside at the top to denote a fold means that garment can be hung indoors or outdoors. Square box with three vertical lines inside shows that garment can be left to drip dry indoors or outdoors.

Square box with a single horizontal line in the middle means that garment should be laid flat to dry.

Finally, square box with two diagonal lines in the upper corner means that garment can be hung to dry but must be kept in the shade.

Test methods specifying or confirming instructions for natural drying are given in ISO 6330: 2000, line drying (ISO 6330: 2000, 8.1), dripping (ISO 6330: 2000, 8.2), flat drying (ISO 6330: 2000, 8.3)

IRONING AND STEAM IRONING

The iron is the symbol for ironing process (see Figure 5). The dots indicate the temperature ranges for ironing. The maximum temperature must be selected solely on the basis of the care label and not according to the fibre content of a textile article.

PROFESSIONAL CLEANING

A circle (see Figure 6) identifies the possibilities of professional dry cleaning and water cleaning of textiles (except natural leather and fur). Various professional cleaning processes are shown in Table 6. The symbol of the water washing process should be used optionally.

EXAMPLES OF ADDITIONAL WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS

Definition

Written instructions are additional information on care labels. Following the instructions on the care labels is an assurance that the appearance and fit of the garment will be maintained after repeated cleaning treatments.

Examples of additional written instructions

Commonly used written instructions are shown in Table 7. It is recommended to keep the number of additional written information on care label to a minimum.

SUITCASES

HARDSIDE CASES – MATERIALS

1. PC – polycarbonate Plastic material. A thermoplastic polymer that is very durable, flexible and lightweight.
2. PP – polypropylene A thermoplastic polymer characterised by high durability and lightweight.
3. ABS – acrylonitrile butadiene styrene copolymer A thermoplastic polymer characterized by high durability and impact resistance.
4. PET – methylene teraphthalate A thermoplastic polymer characterized by very high durability and high shape stability.
5. Aluminium Aluminum alloys refined by the anodizing process (surface covered with a coating of oxides). The coating is additionally coloured. Suitcases made of this material are characterized by high stiffness and impact resistance.

SOFTSIDE CASES – MATERIALS

1. Polyester
   Synthetic fibre, polymer. Is characterised by:
   - low hygroscopic properties,
   - resistance to dirt,
   - resistance to stretch,
   - shape stability,
   - easy care.
2. Nylon, polyamide, etc.
   Synthetic polymer fibres. Characterised by:
   - very high resistance to stretch and abrasion,
   - low hygroscopic properties,
   - resistance to dirt,
   - easy care.

HOW TO PACK A SUITCASE?

When packing the suitcase, keep the heaviest items at the bottom of your suitcase near the wheels. That keeps the centre of gravity low and reduces the likelihood it will tip over and get damaged. Things that are crease-resistant should be rolled up. ABS suitcases are not flexible, so they should be packed in an optimal way - the more things inside, the better the shock absorption and lower risk of damage.

HOW TO CLEAN A SUITCASE?

Hard-side luggage made of PP, PC, ABS, PET and aluminum

Small dirt should be removed with a soft, damp cloth, and wiped with a dry, soft cloth. More stubborn dirt should be removed with a soft brush, or with a mild solution of a detergent and water. In order to remove detergent residues, the outer shell should be thoroughly wiped with a soft, damp cloth. Dry the luggage away from heat sources. Cleaning aluminum products should be done in the same way: with a damp cloth, stronger dirt with mild detergents.

Do not use any solvents!

Soft-side luggage made of z polyester or nylon

Dirt should be removed with a soft, damp cloth or a soft brush with a mild solution of a detergent and water. In order to remove detergent residues, the outer shell should be thoroughly wiped with a soft, damp cloth. Dry the luggage away from heat sources.

Do not use any solvents!